install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your program

Rvers who pull voyage trailers or fifth-wheel trailers with their pickup trucks know that their range is somewhat limited. Maybe it's 300 miles; maybe even less.

They also know or will soon learn that they must think well ahead concerning that required fuel stop. How far before they will run empty should they stop to fill up? Where is there a middle point which they can get into and out of the pumps without damage? Where is a middle point of the desired brand or which will take the desired prestige card? What is the price, compared to other locations along the route? And so on.

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It's not a easy inquire to answer. Advent up with the reply often requires indispensable reasoning power and creates stress. Stress which no Rver needs.

install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your program

I'll use my F-350 Power Stroke as am example. The premise tank holds 38 gallons. That means that while towing my trailer I can practically all the time get 300 miles on a tank full, and under the most ideal conditions I might be able to get 400 miles.

Here in the Midwest, seeing stations at suitable spots is not a problem. But how about more sparsely populated areas, where it can categorically be 100 miles in the middle of towns? And do those towns have suitable places to fuel? It can be a problem!

With my wife's encouragement, I added a combination toolbox/tank. It holds 45 gallons in the lower part while the upper seven inches or so is a toolbox. That's a great place for a pair of battery jumper cables, a tow chain, a provide of diesel fuel additive, spare oil and oil filter, a lug wrench, and tie-down straps.

This tank has been great for our marriage! Now planning fuel stops is a non-issue because we have adequate range that we can categorically plan to stop at our beloved places to fill up. With this setup, I tell citizen that I can run 400 miles, then must find a place to fuel up within the next 300 miles!

Now it is relatively easy to avoid buying fuel in cities or even whole states where the price is "too high."

The results of adding this auxiliary tank are simple: Now we buy fuel on our terms, not when we must. It makes a world of inequity in the expenditure of reasoning power concerning fueling.

There are several distinct approaches to aux tanks, from the rather sophisticated to the brutally simple.

The simplest version is just a tank with a pump and a hose. When you want to use fuel from the aux tank, you stop, take the end of the hose, stick it in the filler pipe of the main tank, and turn the pump on. This is simple, easy to install, and easy to understand. And potentially messy! Don't forget to turn the pump off!

The most sophisticated one of which I am aware is the law sold by exchange Flow. With this system, fuel is automatically transferred from the aux to the main tank. A "control panel" in the cab provides a digital readout of the whole of fuel in each tank. Because of the automation and information provided, this law is considered by many to be the top of the line in auxiliary fuel tank systems.

I chose the middle ground and, as they say, "It works for me!"

The law I installed has a switch in the cab labeled "Main" or "Auxiliary." When in the "Auxiliary" position, fuel feeds from the aux tank directly to the engine. The suitable fuel gauge indicates the whole of fuel in the aux tank.

When switched to the "Main" position, fuel flows from the main tank directly to the machine and the fuel gauge indicates the whole of fuel in the main tank.

For me, this law is great: Simple, not messy, easy fuel gauge readout. And easy fuel management. It serves us well.

There's an added benefit which no one mentions. It provides a back-up fuel pump! I've not heard of fuel pumps going bad in pickups, but I have supplanted fuel pumps in two cars. A failed fuel pump can leave you stranded and be high-priced to replace. With many auxiliary fuel tank systems, you have a second fuel pump! This creates a redundant system, just like many of the systems in airplanes where the results of a failure of the main law are naturally unacceptable.

If your spouse or you spend too much time inspecting fuel stops or if you naturally have to stop too often, you are a great candidate for an auxiliary fuel tank. It puts you in the drivers seat!

Copyright 2007 Keith A. Williams

install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your program

Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc question

If you enjoy Rvs you already know that a major part of the fun with Rving is getting away from everything. You can just pack up the Rv and head out to get some well deserved rest and freedom without having to deal with the hassles of day-to-day living. These restful, relaxing, memory production Rv trips should not be jeopardized by something as easy as a 12-volt electrical question ruining your vacation.

If you've been Rving for any number of time you are already aware that a good part of the devices and accessories in your Rv operate off of 12-volt Dc power. 12-volt Dc or Direct Current is electricity supplied by the Rv batteries. Dc electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12-Vdc electricity is stored in the Rv batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that operate off of 12-volts.

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These 12-volt devices contain overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, Lp gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt Tvs and the refrigerator when it's operating in the Lp gas mode. When you go camping you rely on these 12-volt items to operate properly, especially if you're dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?

Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc question

For the sake of an example let's say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working.

I am convinced that just about anyone is capable of troubleshooting a 12-Vdc problem, and in many cases repairing the question without it ruining your camping trip. For starters you will need a join of easy tools to aid you in troubleshooting your Rv's 12-volt electrical system.

1). An cheap 12-volt test light.

2). A multi-meter that can test for Dc power.

Both of these are ready at local auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, assorted size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you're aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.

Now, try to settle the last time the water pump of course worked. Did you leave the Rv for a period of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water retention tank? Were you working on or colse to something else that could have affected the performance of the water pump? Try to think of all possible scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.

If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are expensed adequate to contribute power to these 12-volt items. There are a join of ways to perform a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check the health of the coach batteries. To get an correct reading make sure the Rv is not plugged into electricity and turn on a join of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the Rv is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully expensed reading) A more correct formula is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-Vdc and place the negative test probe on the negative battery terminal and the confident test probe on the confident battery terminal. A fully expensed battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50% state of charge and will need to be charged.

If the battery is fully charged, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the Rv are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the Rv you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. settle which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are normally labeled) and find a favorable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the allowable size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.

Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the allowable size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It's possible for connections to come loose due to inordinate vibration. correct any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn't work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.

If you unblemished all of these tests and there is 12-volt Dc power advent to the water pump motor, and it still doesn't come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.

Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical question in your Rv is not that difficult. Ensue the logical path of the gismo you are troubleshooting and see if you can settle where the question is. It might be possible for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the Rv dealership too.

Note: If you don't feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your Rv to a reputable fix center to have it checked out and repaired

Happy Camping!

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv instruction 101

Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc question